A charming mid-century jewel by celebrated Beverly Hills designer William Ruser, this whimsical teddy bear brooch is crafted in textured 14K yellow gold with blue sapphire eyes and a lustrous American freshwater baroque pearl.

Dating to circa 1940s–1950s, the brooch exemplifies the imaginative figural jewelry for which Ruser became renowned. He had an extraordinary ability to look at the irregular shape of a baroque pearl and see the beginnings of a character, animal or scene, incorporating the pearl itself into the composition rather than simply using it as an ornament.

Here, a finely textured gold teddy bear with a bow-tied neck and bright sapphire eyes sits atop the naturally sculptural freshwater pearl. The result is playful without being childish—a miniature piece of wearable sculpture that captures the wit, craftsmanship and personality that distinguish Ruser's most collectible work.

Measuring approximately 31.8 × 16 mm, the brooch is signed Ruser 14K and retains its hinged pin with safety clasp.

Details

Designer: William Ruser
Period: Circa 1940s–1950s
Jewel: Figural teddy bear brooch
Metal: 14K yellow gold
Gemstones: Two blue sapphires and American freshwater baroque pearl
Measurements: Approximately 31.8 × 16 mm
Signature: Ruser 14K
Closure: Hinged pin with safety clasp
Condition: Excellent

Ruser and Hollywood's Golden Age

William Ruser (American, 1908–1994) began his jewelry career at the age of 17, apprenticing with Howard Hoeffer in Atlantic City. During World War II he paused his jewelry career and served in the Army Air Corps. Ruser returned to California and, in 1947, opened his own jewelry salon on Rodeo Drive with his wife Pauline. Before the war, he crossed paths with a traveling button salesman from Mississippi who presented him with several shoeboxes filled with baroque pearls. He purchased all of them and later used them to inspire the designs that would cement his place as one of the most respected American mid-century jewelers. In the unique shapes of the pearls, he saw birds, cherubs, various animals, and playful figures. He transformed them into jewelry that radiated wit and charm and set him apart from his contemporaries. At the time, baroque pearls had not had any type of popularity since the Art Deco period. Conveniently located in Beverly Hills, his store’s location and whimsical creations soon captivated the attention of film stars like Marlene Dietrich, Joan Crawford, Lana Turner, Loretta Young, and Shirley Temple. His designs even appeared on the big screen most notably by Barbara Stanwyck in the 1948 suspense thriller, Sorry, Wrong Number. Here Stanwyck wears her own three gardenia necklace and matching earrings, designed by Ruser.

Ruser's Iconic “Day of the Week” Brooches

Among Ruser’s most iconic designs are his “Day of the Week” brooches, inspired by the old English nursery rhyme that attributes qualities to children born on each day. With a keen sense of storytelling, he translated those lines into miniature golden figures brought to life with pearls and gems: "Monday’s child" might gaze into a mirror, "Wednesday’s child" sits forlornly with head in hands, and "Friday’s child" plays joyfully with a puppy. Each brooch is both a jewel and a portrait, capturing a mood with theatrical detail. These pieces exemplify Ruser’s unique aesthetic—imbued with narrative, humor, and sentiment—and remain highly collectible today as symbols of his ability to transform poetry and pearls into wearable art. Due to the uniqueness of the pearls, there are no two brooches alike.

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